As fashion houses adapted to accommodate the digital sphere, increasing consumers’ access to fashion shows, the role of a fashion critic has inevitably changed. No longer the industry’s secrets gatekeeper, the critic had to redefine its role. Enter social media. The decline of print magazines gave birth to a brand new kind of fashion criticism prospering in the digital sphere, that of fashion bloggers and social media aficionados.
What’s left to say here is that the format is wrong for many smaller brands and designers that do great design and tailoring-but can’t get through the digital noise or simply don’t have the resources to bring their vision to digital life. They need support as much as editors need a clear calendar to look forward to
Any cover star appearing on Vogue or Vanity Fair signifies less than the epitome of a cultural moment-and becomes part of a spectacle unfolding before the public’s eyes.
Some brands are producing photograph portfolios of their collections while others are hosting presentations in a socially distanced setting. Opulent daywear, elaborate craftsmanship, and coed collections set the tone for the season.
That brings us to the question: Overall, in fashion, is the idea that matters or the execution of the idea? How should we approach a fashion show followed by a lot of show notes or a digital experiment that comes with a written (or spoken) manifesto? In the end, does it matter what designers have to say about themselves and their work?
“Uniqueness perhaps is the message from Hyeres and the one that could save this season. The industry needs to remember it’s not youth per se that will save the world, is talent, experimentation, and perseverance.”
The SS21 Digital Paris Fashion Week season was an amalgam of attitudes towards a new reality that sometimes leaves us hopeless and angry. Escapism from the world health crisis took many forms, from going at the disco to dreaming awake.