In 1947, Harper’s Bazaar’s Editor-in-Chief Carmel Snow famously dubbed Christian Dior’s collection the “New Look”. And while it was Dior’s … More
“If the number of shows on the schedule is any indication that the future of Couture is all but cemented, the question we should be asking in the future is, “Why does this collection need to be Couture?”
The idea of mixing local couture-like craftsmanship techniques with the properties of modern sportswear is an intriguing one. Still, every great concept requires a brilliant execution. Chiuri delivered clean-cut, minimal active wear interrupted by deconstructed Bar jackets and some sweats with prints loosely related to modern Greek art.
This kind of messaging blurs the line between advertising and editorial content to the point where there really isn’t any distinction between the two. Furthermore, it enforces archaic patriarchal stereotypes.
Titled “Feminity” this was a collection focused on womenswear marking a shift from Burberry’s long championed gender fluidity. It was also the sheer proof that intuition alone delivered a collection that can please everyone, ever luxury fashion’ over-saturated audience.
As fashion houses adapted to accommodate the digital sphere, increasing consumers’ access to fashion shows, the role of a fashion critic has inevitably changed. No longer the industry’s secrets gatekeeper, the critic had to redefine its role. Enter social media. The decline of print magazines gave birth to a brand new kind of fashion criticism prospering in the digital sphere, that of fashion bloggers and social media aficionados.