Resort collections often feature some of the most wearable clothes of the season; and Chanel Resort 2021 was no exception to the rule. Virginie Viard showcased her new collection for the House of Chanel at the Carrières de Lumières in the South of France-a place that bears a special significance for the storied house. Back in 1960, Jean Cocteau—the influential poet, and filmmaker, used these quarries as a setting for his film The Testament of Orpheus, a self referential saga of love and dark obsessions. Gabrielle Chanel herself clothed the movie and a Jean Cocteau sketch of the 1920s fringed Chanel dress was the starting point for these designs with drawings from the Orpheus featured on some of the collections T-Shirts.
Chanel collections don’t often drift away from the house’s established code of tweeds, boucle jackets, and black-and-white-meets pastels palette. This time, Viard visualizes them with a grungier edge, a kind of bourgeois meets punk essence that looked well..interesting in a resort collection. The list of references spanned from pop sensitivity (thus the Britney Spears closing song) to a refined version of mod styles along with punkish details. There were gold studs and fishnet tights worn with boots and graphic tees peeking out underneath those typical Chanel pastel tweed suits. As for the ever-present Chanel logo: this time logo-stamped chokers and monogrammed facial jewelry with the CC charm hanging from a lip ring
The piercings are definitely loud yet fake. Similarly, Viard’s Chanel aims to tap into a millennial clientele that appreciates those logoed tank tops, tweed miniskirts, and low rise pants with a punk twist-still it looks undecided and fake. If anything, Karl would have gone the whole way. The good part? A few seasonless staples you can invest in; that is if you can look behind the hype.