I was revisiting the images from the new Burberry collection by Riccardo Tisci to review, stunned by the number of looks presented – surely they didn’t seem that many while actually on the runway – no less than 130 looks!
For those of us who were hoping for a goth ‘revamp’, there was a disappointment. Tisci took a respectful-yet- boring approach to the British heritage brand delivering pieces that aimed at (in his words): “The mother and the daughter, the father, and the son”.In other words, well, something for everyone.
There were pleated skirts and blouses in a soft palette of beiges, browns and whites, traditional office suits, and the ever-present Burberry trench reimagined and deconstructed a million times even as a dress or a skirt. Those were for the senior ladies. The daughters and the sons were served with outfits that bore punk references,streetwear-inspired shirts, and trousers with Victoriana references.
Burberry is a heritage brand with strong visual codes and moving forward can only happen when based in those but also inventing new ones, styles, and shapes that will become the new classics-and so on. In that sense, Tisci played more safe than creativity allows. And it was actually that every effort to include every aspect of Britishness into a unified ‘Kingdom’ that made the collection lack personality-any personality, even his own.
The new Burberry will emerge from the understanding that you should not only cater to the brand’s existing clientele but explore new ground-and no, I don’t mean inserting the Bambi logo or the nova check anywhere more. In that sense, we are still on hold for Tisci’s next collection-hoping it will be better.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos