This is one of the few reviews that i feel the show’s inspiration, the ‘context’, is rentered much irrelevant by the actual runway clothes.Still, first things first.
Maria Grazia Chiuri was actually inspired by a black-and-white photograph of young women protesting outside a Dior store because there weren’t enough miniskirts offered inside.It is of no coincidence,though, that later the same year, Marc Bohan launched Miss Dior, the house’s first ready-to-wear, including Dior miniskirts.It was the 60’s and the struggle for female empowerment went along with the Paris student protests of 1968, a event this season its marking a 50 year anniversary.And fashion then understood and expressed times.
To ask if Dior’s Fall 2018 ready to wear collection actually understands post modern times is a crucial question. In fact, Maria Grazia seems to believe that female empowerment can be served with retro forms as if living in a time capsule.Or expressed via the schematic perception of a millennial customer who thinks the 60s were revolutionary just because of the miniskirts,leather pants and patchwork–so bring some to the collection!
So,the show’s theme was the 60s and it was explored to the point of obsession with dark cap hats,patchworks,woven ponchos and lots of leather.Tulle -a Chiuri favorite- and flower dresses were also present as well as patch worked handbags featuring the new Dior logo, an oversized D.The materials were luxurious, the craftsmanship excellent, the design though was so uninspiring and the tailoring so unflattering you could hardly believe it was a Dior show.
The idea of what empowers women has shifted much from the beginning of the feminist movement,nowadays is much more about self-expressing than logo T-shirts or 60s reminiscent tartan miniskirts.Some woman may even feel their best selves in the exaggerated,voluminous dresses Galliano designed for the House of Dior a few years ago.Now,how a woman is supposed to feel ’empowered’ in poorly designed still overpriced Dior clothes is indeed a question.
( Photo credits: Indigital.tv)