Paul Andrew has been a favorite shoe designer with a resume that features work in Calvin Klein and Alexander McQueen before establishing his own footwear brand.For his Ferragamo womenswear debut collection he drew inspiration from what he defines as the ”naughty aristocrat”. “I was looking at the show ‘The Crown,’ and the idea of Princess Margaret, who is this sort of naughty aristocratic person, who has been out all night long, she is still wearing her velvet gown and it is 7 a.m. and she realizes, ‘Oh, no, I need to go out and feed the pigs'” he explained backstage.
Showing his work alongside that of Ferragamo’s menswear designer Guillaume Meilland was a step towards establishing a common voice, an aesthetic. After all,Andrew’s Ferragamo woman is one that ”dresses from the ground up: from toe to head.” In his mind,the shoes have definitely been dictating the proportions of the coats, skirts and pants of this first collection.With luxury and comfort in mind he presented a collection that featured shirt dresses with prints straight from the Ferragamo scarves archives,ponchos and plush leather pants all an ode to Italian tradition and craftsmanship.He also reviewed the brand’s trademark ganci,using them as the main focus in accessories such as belts and high boots.There were also galvanized heels with metallic glazing worn with socks, an effort to reach a younger clientele.
A promising debut like this always makes us curious of what is to come next. It would be refreshing to view great,theatrics-free quality clothes on the runway again.After all,focusing on quality never goes out of style.
( Photos: InDigital.tv )