Great fashion can be of two kinds: the one that focuses on the design and tailoring of outfits and the one that produces great clothes with a certain narrative, a concept. Alessandro Michele’s Gucci collection was neither. Presented as a comment on” the figure that can overcome the dualism and dichotomy of identity”, the show appeared just so Instagram-friendly you would forget it was Gucci’s offering on actual ready-to-wear.
Focusing on the definition of identities in a post modern world, the collection drew inspiration by Donna Haraway’s 1984 A Cyborg Manifesto,a work that challenges the boundaries between humans machines and animals.If we alone are constructing our very own identities and thus looks, we are nothing less that: ”The Dr Frankenstein of our lives,” according to Michele. “There’s a clinical clarity about what I am doing. I was thinking of a space that represents the creative act. I wanted to represent the lab I have in my head. It’s physical work, like a surgeon’s.” Hence the set was nothing less than a rather chilling old-fashioned operating theatre with real surgical beds and operating lights.
Now what about the clothes?
The actual styles were referencing several cultures,with garments worn together channeling the recent /ugly chic’ whose modern ambassador is Gucci. Tweeds were worn with bold prints,monastic velvet coats with ‘dad sneakers’,transparent dry cleaner bag-style garments with Russian folklore motifs,you name it, it was there.Some clothes were greatly executed and interesting in design terms, such as the black ruffle skirts or the red 30’s dress worn with a balaclava.
Still, baby dragons and severed heads’ apart,there was nothing innovating, cool or inspired about the outfits.Take the styling away and what you get was clothes we have already seen in the recent Vetements or Calvin Klein shows, to name two.So what’s next for Gucci?I’d say ”change way or the highway”.
( Photos: Indigital.tv)