Fashion’s crisis has always been one of ethics and not only aesthetics with emerging designers trying to establish both a fresh vision and a new conscience.During day two of London Fashion Week,its was all about redefining the idea of modern Britishness via exploring craft and tradition.
Take Matty Bovan. Serving his creative vision with all his lifestyle, he has moved back to his parents’ home in Yorkshire which he presently uses as an atelier. His first collection after Fashion East, featured deconstructed grandma jackets and ‘reviewed’ Coach bags -all a personal tribute to his Grandmother, a strong childhood influence. The essence of Britishness and the use of traditional codes intermingled with club and punk references created a strong show featuring handmade outfits mostly made by him.Big things can start in a smaller scale,indeed.
Simone Rocha’s universe is all about femininity and elegance,all with a Victorian twist. For this season she presented a ‘conversation’ between simplicity and opulence, delivering dresses covered in frills, signature bows and ribbons, using flower brocades,laces, even laminated tweeds.A feeling of historical dress codes translated into day wear with a attitude is her suggestion of a modern woman with personality.
Christopher Bailey’s version of Britishness is beauty in all its diversity. His understanding of traditional codes and references is strong, translating them into impeccable design, great day wear and most of all-‘hype’. “Fashion needs context,” he stated after the show ended. ”There are so many questions being asked in the world now: about our values, about the way we live, the way we consume.” In his last Burberry show he incorporated all Burberry trademarks, the trenchcoat, the puffa jacket, the evening dress,with the House’s signature check in rainbow colors,as a tribute to the LGBTQ community.His legacy is strong- it is Bailey’s visual vocabulary and understanding of heritage values that have made Burberry the synonym of quality and cool that it is today.