( Images’ credit:Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv )
Leonor Fini was a female influential surrealist artist with a strong visual narrative and a very personal way of dressing, mostly known for her depiction of female figures.There is a sense of female empowering in both Fini’s subjects and her leading a rather independent life in a time when women were expected to fulfill certain roles-and artist wasn’t one of them.
Maria Grazia Chiuri described the Dior spring summer 2018 couture collection in her pre-show notes as a ”tribute to surrealist Leonor Fini.” and also as a ”tribute to the spiritual power of today’s women.”It does sound promising.Still what was closer both to Fini’s aesthetics and to creativity in general, was the Stephen Jones head gears that were amazing.As for the show?You could tell by the face of the front row guests that wasn’t exactly visually stimulating.
The craftsmanship was exquisite as it is always with Dior with delicate details,tulle ruffles,guipure lace dresses and embellishments from heaven.The tailoring also outstanding with super sharp bodices,trousers and silky Bar Jackets.The collection was based mostly in op-art black and white with surrealistic references such as the ‘Schiaparellian’ tromp l’oeil gown featuring a cap and gloves on it.
Still,one couldn’t but notice the lack of a design vision and the repetitiveness of it all.With mostly evening wear, the show bore no reference to the Dior archives,no fresh inspiration whatsoever.
In the end one was left wondering if empowering women is actually being served by dressing them in designs that bare the nipples but turn the bodices into small ‘cages’,restraining the upper body.And i suspect Madame Fini herself would have anwered ‘no’.