Dior Spring/Summer 2017 Haute Couture- ”Titanias lost in the maze”


Maria Grazia Chiuri chose the Musee Rodin as the place to stage her first Dior Haute Couture collection,creating a full blown garden maze of green flora with the ”tree of life”  as the main scenography theme-a fantastic piece of stage design indeed.Celebrating the star, the house’s basic symbol and using a tarot/astrological iconography (a hint to Monsieut Dior’s personal obsession with the kind), she tried to find her way over the actual maze-the Dior ateliers-so as to create a collection bearing a unified aesthetic language.The idea of ”making couture wearable” she stated backstage is a huge task by its own,let alone in the House of Dior with a past heavy of the Galliano theatrical couture days or the Raf Simon’s elitistic ones.

Her idea of fairy tale yet down-to-earth couture started with-what else?-the Bar,this time  redesigned for the millennials. Still, it looked more monastical than fresh,heavy black hooded jacked over New-Look length  skirts.I like the idea of a masked ball and the Stephen Jones accessories here ok ) but the clothes were a bit too heavy,almost dated.

For the second part of the collection,Maria Grazia Chiuri relied on what she knows best: ethereal princess gowns in tulle and taffeta in bright colors,all  showcasing the excellent craftsmanship of the Dior ateliers.Beautiful Titanias created ” from the stuff that dreams are made” to impress with their otherwordliness ableit a very client-specific one.Those dresses were made to be worn.Still,even though wearable couture is something to be admired its nt by itself modern-it also need a unifying collection  theme,a strong silhouette to be suggested for a Couture House as great as Dior.Lets give Mrs Chiuri some more time to abolish her Valentino years and become more Diorish-whatever that means..



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